1. Basic principles when cleaning the cuticle
- Never apply excessive force when pushing or trimming the cuticle.
- Prioritise gentleness and patience, allowing the skin to lift naturally.
- Respect the natural structure of the cuticle; do not attempt to scrape everything off at all costs.
- If you push too deeply or trim too harshly, you can tear the epidermis, causing swelling, redness, bleeding, and an increased risk of infection.
2. Step-by-step techniques
a) Preparation before cleaning the cuticle
- Sanitise the client’s nails and hands before starting.
- If the cuticle skin is dry and tough, soak the hands in warm water for two to three minutes or use a specialist softener to help soften the skin.
b) Using a cuticle pusher
- Pushing angle: Hold the cuticle pusher at an angle of approximately 30 to 45 degrees against the nail. Do not push directly at 90 degrees, as this can easily damage the nail plate.
- Pressure: Apply light pressure, only pushing when the skin naturally lifts away from the nail plate. Do not force it.
- Technique: Push along the natural curve of the nail. Do not push diagonally or twist your wrist forcefully.
c) Using a cuticle knife
- Avoid using nippers to cut deeply into the cuticle, as this risks cutting live skin.
- Instead, use a specialist cuticle knife to gently trim any excess skin.
How to use the knife:
- Glide the blade lightly along the cuticle line.
- Do not press down hard or scrape abruptly.
- Move your hand smoothly, like “gliding over waves”, allowing the knife to naturally follow the line of the skin.
“If you feel you must apply strong pressure to trim the skin, it means the skin is not ready yet. Stop and soften it further before continuing.”
d) Gently buff the cuticle area
- After trimming, use a fine buffer (240–400 grit) to gently smooth the area around the cuticle and remove any sharp edges.
3. Important reminders during the process
- Continuously check the client’s reactions. If the client pulls their hand away or shows discomfort, stop immediately, reduce pressure, or adjust your technique.
- Never press tools heavily onto the nail plate, as this can weaken it or cause dents later.
- If you accidentally scratch or injure the skin, stop cuticle work immediately and disinfect the area properly.
4. Aftercare following cuticle work
- Thoroughly wipe the cuticle area with a gentle alcohol solution.
- Apply cuticle oil to nourish and help the skin recover quickly.
- Advise the client not to touch water for at least one to two hours after the cuticle work to minimise the risk of infection.
5. Skills technicians should continue to develop
- Practise maintaining a light, precise touch.
- Learn to recognise the different cuticle structures of each client (thin, thick, dry, sensitive).
- Always use sharp, clean tools to work delicately and minimise any risk of injury.
✅ Golden rules summary:
Push lightly – trim gently – buff smoothly – care thoroughly
